There has been debate in the media arguing whether the globalization of the fashion industry that has led to ‘fast fashion’, is a neo-colonial practice or not.
Defining Neo-colonialism
Firstly, it is important to define the term ‘neo-colonialism’. Nkrumah (1965) defines it as such,
“The essence of neo-colonialism is that the State which is subject to it is, in theory, independent and has all the outward trappings of international sovereignty, its economic system and thus its political policy is directed from outside” (p.1)
It is thus the theory that although new colonies are no longer created and that independent ex-colonies now exist, there is still a way for certain countries to exert power over others that is not as direct a form of imperialism. Nkrumah suggests that neo-colonialism is replacing colonialism and is acting as the “last stage of imperialism” (ibid).
The Global North and the Global South
Image: What is the division between Global North and Global South? World Map.
This idea of colonial or neo-colonial undertones in the fashion industry has been discussed much in the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic and Black Lives Matter protests appearing on mainstream media (Barenblat and Use the "Insert Citation" button to add citations to this document.
Mayer 2020; Lewis 2020; Shaiful 2021). The gravest consequences fell largely on the Global South which mainly produces fast fashion garments for the Global North. Not only were these workers out of work or remained in precarious working conditions during a pandemic, but were also left hungry and living in boarding houses (Barenblat and Mayer 2020) but there was discussion in more left-leaning circles about the conditions these garment workers were facing, as the pandemic highlighted the “fragility of supply chains, which rely on black and brown workers” (Lewis 2020). There were reports of a lack of PPE provision and workers who were still working being tightly packed despite the lack of a vaccine and social distancing provisions. This highlighted the pre-existing inequalities between the Global North and South, and the paradox between the news stories of people in the stockpiling versus the stories of garment workers in Pakistan or Bangladesh, who were suffering from a genuine lack of food or money to provide for themselves (Labour organizer in Bangladesh cited in Braenblat and Mayer 2020).
Location of Globalized Fashion Production
Bangladesh is one of the leading garment-producing countries, a former colony under the British Empire that is now producing garments for its ex-Empire, Great Britain (Shaiful 2021). However, the Bangladeshi factories are not only providing for its former coloniser, as its garments are distributed worldwide, but one cannot deny that it is unsettling to consider where the clothes are made and who they are made for. It is even more disturbing when we consider the working conditions and quality of life experienced by those in former colonies for the benefit of its former coloniser: to enjoy clothes at low prices. It is harrowing that the garment workers are reliant on the consumption of the Global North to secure their labour, earn money and provide for themselves and their families
Image: Textile Industry in Bangladesh. Wikipedia.
Fast Fashion as Neo-colonial Practice
If we return to the definition of neo-colonialism by Nkrumah (1965) it states that although countries like Pakistan or Bangladesh are no longer under the political and imperial control of the British Empire, this theory of neo-colonisation suggests that they are still economically dependent on the power and wealth of its ex-coloniser.
With the research suggesting that the garment industry, whose factories are mostly located in the Global South, is heavily reliant on Global North consumerism to survive, then the theory of neo-colonisation can effectively be applied to the analysis of fast fashion, concluding that it shows signs of neo-colonial practices.
What about the factories in Leicester…?
Despite this, the fast fashion industry is more complex. Factories and exploitation of garment workers don’t only happen in the Global South. It is happening in Leicester, UK - the Global North. This will be explored in the next instalment.
Image: Pretty Little Thing Garment Factory in Leicester, UK. InsiderMedia
Bibliography
Barenblat, A. and Mayer, A. 2020. Colonialism in Fast Fashion: Brands are today’s Colonial Masters. Available at: https://remake.world/stories/news/colonialism-in-fashion-brands-are-todays-colonial-masters/ [Accessed: 31 March 2022].
Lewis, M. 2020. The fashion industry echoes colonialism - and DFiD’s new scheme will subsidise it. The Guardian 25 August. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/global-development/2020/aug/25/the-fashion-industry-echoes-colonialism-dfid-new-scheme-will-subsidise-it.
Nkrumah, K. 1965. Neo-Colonialism: The Last Stage of Imperialism. International Publishers
Shaiful, A. 2021. Fast Fashion: A Colonial Practice. Jore Magazine 27 January. Available at: https://www.joremagazine.com/post/fast-fashion-a-neocolonial-practice.
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